The valve train is actually very robust and still works without complaint even if the rocker arms have lost their lubrication. And this happens almost inevitably with older models (from around six years of age). After this time, a rubber part called a ” cuff ” gives in to the oil pressure, expands, and lets the engine oil “just so” escape into the valve cover. Therefore: Take a look at this sleeve when adjusting the valve clearance. It must be “soft.” (not hardened) and tightly enclose the rocker arm shaft. A permanent remedy would be a self-made “cuff” made of brass (for noble hobbyists).
Setting the valve clearance
For new machines after the first 500-1500 km and then every 5000 km thereafter, the play between the rocker arms and valves must be checked. Also in between when the valve train makes too loud noises. The setting is made when the engine is cold (important!) And the piston is at the top dead center (TDC) with the valves closed during the compression cycle.
After removing the valve cover, proceed as follows:
Loosen the nut with a wrench.
Then you can turn the screw until the appropriate game is set.
The valve clearance can be found in the datasheet for your motorcycle.
The feeler gauge must be able to be “sucked” through the gap. If so, you can tighten the nut again. Secure the screw with a screwdriver.
When tightening the nut, the screw may turn again. Therefore, after locking the nut, recheck the valve clearance! Do not tighten the lock nut too tight! If you counter too much, the screw lengthens and can break during operation. If you turn the screws entirely out (or in), they run “out of round” and stiff. Replace such screws immediately !!
Be sure to use the correct feeler gauges! Incorrectly adjusted valve clearance can have severe and expensive consequences.
The brakes for a V50 Monza seem to have at least three different versions. The manual picture shows a variant with a Bowden cable for the handbrake and a storage container. Another variant has a brake force distributor below the tank. The third variant has a handbrake cylinder instead of the Bowden cable.
The whole thing becomes interesting with repairs or when converting to steel braided. Years ago, the people at Spiegler had designed a conversion kit for the Monza for all variants (4 lines).
The stupid thing is: you may pay for a line that is not used. However, there are also sets for small guzzis with only three lines (do they fit a Monza?)
Here is the list for a Monza III (´83):
- 53 cm eye – eye (master brake cylinder – rear);
- 73 cm eye – thread (handbrake – front right);
- 80 cm internal thread – thread (master brake cylinder – front left)
- 52 cm eye – thread (?)
Another note on the assembly of steel field lines:
The threaded pieces are screwed into the brake calipers without sealing washers! They seal directly via a cone. (Not in the description)
The final drive of the V50 Monza is somewhat weak. That is why it must work under optimal conditions. That means good oil; correct oil level; Distance the Cardan correctly (costs around 150 – 200 DM).
It is also not wrong to apply a little grease to the sliding piece between the universal joint and the final drive once a year. Treated in this way, the gimbal can also achieve high mileage.
Note: The final drives are lousily removed from the factory. That is why it is advisable for new Guzzis to have the final drive checked (this is an issue for the specialist !!).
If you do not do this, the gimbal of a small Guzzi can hold a chain set (30,000 km). As a rule, one of the drive bearings or the drive (tooth loss) disassembles after this mileage.
Warning: If the gimbal makes any strange noises ==> STOP IMMEDIATELY and switch off the motorcycle. Driving on costs more than any rental car !!
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